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Business & Tech

A Table Piled High With Gourmet Eats

An upscale grocery store that stocks hyperlocal produce

When you walk into Table Local Market in Bedford Hills, you almost feel like you have stepped into some stylish little gourmet shop down in Soho or The Village.   However this little market is all about being local.

Table is the brainchild of Cynthia Brennan, a Katonah-resident who wished she could shop at a farmer's market on a daily basis.  After talking to friends and neighbors, she realized she wasn't alone in her desire.  So, she did something about it, even though her background in design is more chic than chicken. 

And Cynthia's background certainly shows in the shop's savvy style, though the design is green at it's core.   Cynthia's architect husband, Patrick, oversaw the environmentally-responsible renovation of the building; a Leeds Standard certificate is still pending.   Funky shelving behind the counter was constructed from disposed wine crates found in the dumpsters behind Zachy's wine store in Scarsdale. 

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The wood counters and communal table were created by the market's egg man, from a felled local black walnut tree.  An unusual glass hanging sculpture was designed by two local glass artists.  Many of the food containers are compostable, and the food waste and packaging is collected regularly for local composting.

Inside the urban-country market, there are tables covered with foods produced locally: baskets of Wave Hill breads, fresh granola, honey, maple syrup, and even pretzels are among the products.  Refrigerated cases are stocked with local and organic dairy products, as well as chickens and meats from sustainable farms upstate. 

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The artfully arranged produce section includes crates of local fruits and vegetables. Besides the expected, there were persimmons, heirloom apples, gorgeous carrots including the small, round Parisien variety, plump organic cranberries, and several varieties of squash available during my recent visit.  Gorgeous baskets of mushrooms, including the unusual cauliflower variety, would make a funghi-lover's heart skip a beat.

Table has an abundant cheese section, with close to 50 types of cheeses, almost all from Northeast creameries.  Feel free to request a sampling from cheesemonger Patty, as I did!  One of my favorites was the Pepato cheese from Valley Shepherd Creamery in New Jersey; a pecorino-like sheep's milk cheese with just a slight kick from the white peppercorn-crusted rind.   Another favorite was Barat from Sprout Creek Farm in Poughkeepsie.  This is a raw cow's milk cheese with a sweet and nutty taste.

Cynthia's farmer's market dream evolved into more than just a market, though.  It's also a café and catering operation.  The seasonal café menu includes salads, sandwiches, soups, pizzas, cookies and more available to take-away or consume at the communal table.  The kohlrabi soup I sampled was a thick creamy puree with flecks of color from carrots and herbs.  It was both flavorful and hearty. 

The mild turkey chili was less tomato-ey than most, with black-eyed peas rather than the ubiquitous black or pinto bean.  Delicious, though I certainly would not have objected to more spice.   For sandwiches, they have a panini press, and my Cuban panino was crisp and chewy on the exterior with lovely melted cheese, flavorful ham and a pickle on the interior.  The kick which Cubanos usually receive from mustard seemed to be missing, otherwise an excellent sandwich.  

Large glass canisters of cookies on one of the counters caught my eye, and Cynthia offered me her favorite, cardomon spice, a riff on the usual ginger.  It both smells and tastes terrific.  I also brought home a peanut-butter cookie, intending to give it to my peanut-butter-loving son, but after one taste, I claimed it for myself. 

Salads included a lovely and tasty purple israeli couscous with beets, a popular curried chicken salad, festonati pasta, which is an unusual long rippled-tube-shape pasta, with homemade pesto, and John Boy cole slaw made from organic cabbages.  I found them all to be quite appetizing, although the pasta could have spent less time in it's boiling bath.  I am happy to say that it's clear that the staff is taking the time to taste the food in order to season properly.

From the look of the lunch-time crowd during my visit, it appears word is getting out about Table Local Market.  It's a welcomed change not to have to travel down to Union Square in order to procure good locally farmed produce, wonderful country breads, and organic or sustainable-farm meats.   And it certainly doesn't hurt that the place is handsome to boot!

Location: 11 Babbitt Road, Bedford Hills (across from the Bedford Hills train station).
Hours: Mon - Fri, 8am - 6pm; Sat, 9am - 6pm; Sun, closed.
Phone: 914-241-0269 

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