"The sweet life" is what diners can expect at Tuscan Oven in Mt. Kisco, from their first nibble of the homemade foccacia served with a creamy basil and pine nut intensive pesto to their last bite of the decadent tiramisu or other proffered "dolci."
Tuscan Oven was my family's "go to" restaurant after we moved here from the city in 2000. The strip mall location didn't thrill us, but once inside we felt transported, if not to Italy, at least to an authentic Manhattan Italian restaurant. It proved a comfortable place to dine with our new baby, and a sufficiently sophisticated place to dine when we finally hired a sitter. It was an establishment which my foodie in-laws requested when visiting from California.
Fast forward a few years, and our visits grew few and far between. New restaurants were opening up in northern Westchester, and sadly, Tuscan Oven fell along the wayside as we ventured to the latest hotspots.
But on a recent visit, I found the food even better than I remembered from earlier visits. The owners, Anthony and Karen Pirraglia, have handed over the reigns to their son, Jon Paul. Recently married in the countryside of Italy, Jon Paul is passionate about Italian culture, food and wine.
His enthusiasm shows in Tuscan Oven's house-made pastas, breads, desserts and a sophisticated wine list with offerings from good lesser-known producers. And looking around the busy restaurant as it filled up with couples and families, it appears the passion has been noticed.
I found the caprese salad to be outstanding. Flavorful yellow, green and red local heirloom tomatoes sandwiching the creamiest buffalo mozzarella this side of the Atlantic. Ditto the Arancini Bolognese—fried risotto balls mixed with an excellent ragu—almost too good to share with a seatmate.
Of the three pastas tried, I can't pick a favorite. Garganelli with Wild Mushroom, Asparagus & Truffle Cream; Tagliatelle Bolognese; Ricotta Gnocchi with Fennel Sausage, Mozzarella, Arugula and Tomato—all were rich, hearty and well-seasoned. The truffle scent permeating the garganelli is such a comforting smell, one can't wait to dig in. Using house-made pasta for the Bolognese brings it up a notch in comparison with more pedestrian versions. And the gnocchi are little pillows of creamy goodness, dressed in a savory sausage-tomato sauce.
The thin-crusted pizzas are all cooked in a wood-burning oven, making them satisfyingly crisp. The margherita is simple but outstanding, just tomato, mozzarella and basil. I also sampled the Piccante with soppressata and caramelized onions… good but it could not outshine it's more modest sibling.
Of the fish, I tried the Branzino Oreganato with local squash, rapini and pancetta. Branzino is a delicate white sea bass found in northern Italy. The skin was nicely crisped while the interior was still moist and expertly seasoned.
For the meat course, I was presented with braised short ribs sitting atop gorgonzola polenta, and a horseradish gremolata (an Italian lemon & herb condiment for meats) sprinkled over the top. The rib was the largest short rib I've ever encountered—I think it could have braised a bit longer to achieve more tenderness —but the flavor was spot on.
Desserts are also made in-house, and while not avant-garde, none should disappoint. Favorites included the tiramisu, the ricotta cheesecake and the molton chocolate cake with vanilla gelato.
Tuscan Oven is back on my local restaurant radar. This time I won't let it slip away.
Tuscan Oven Mount Kisco, 360 North Bedford Road, Mount Kisco, NY, 10549, T: 914-666-7711, Hours: Mon - Thurs: 11:30 a.m. - 10 p.m. Fri - Sat: 11:30 a.m. - 11 p.m., Sun: 11:30 a.m. - 10 p.m.
