You may have heard about the uproar over a newly developed genetically engineered (GE) salmon, mockingly referred to as "Frankenfish," that has been deemed safe for human consumption and is nearing approval by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The farm-raised salmon is engineered to be ready for market in only 18 months instead of the typical three years. If approved, it would represent the first commercially available GE animal product.

There are some serious concerns with this that have been raised by advocates over recent weeks that are worthy of consideration. First, it appears the science behind the safety testing is less than scientific. Advocates who have examined the reports found that samples sizes were often alarmingly small, and fish with malformations were frequently left out of the samples, meaning only the best were tested.

Second, the FDA currently does not have in place a procedure for examining proposals for GE animal products. So instead, this request is being treated as a veterinary drug. It's hard to see any similarities between the two, and rather than rush to approve this, it seems the FDA should take a little time to rethink their process.

A number of US Senators and a growing number of Democrats in Congress have come out against FDA approval of this fish. While it is certainly possible that it could be safe for human consumption, it appears the cards are stacked against it. But what I find unfortunate about this whole debate is that it obscures what I believe to be a much more serious concern.

Salmon farming is one of the single most environmentally destructive methods of food production. Unlike land-based feedlots, which are nominally "responsible" for disposing of the waste, excrement, and dead animals, salmon farms send it directly into the ocean.

The densely packed captive salmon also escape in large numbers into the wild, taking with them a host of contagious diseases combined with a genetically similar makeup, thereby weakening superior wild salmon when interbreeding occurs (it should be noted that the proposed GE salmon will be unable to breed).

Not to mention that antibiotic use is rampant, feeding conversion is ineffective (up to five pounds of "feed fish" needed for one pound of marketable salmon), and the pinkish color we expect (normal in wild salmon) is due to the use of artificial colorings in most farmed-salmon.

Whether Frankenfish is safe to eat or not, it really does little to address any of the concerns surrounding salmon aquaculture. It is not just GE salmon we should be avoiding, but all farmed fish that cause destruction to our waters and perpetuate the illusion of a limitless bounty.

It may not occur to everyone, but eating in season extends beyond just vegetables. If you're ready to cut farmed salmon out of your diet, check out the very informative guides at both the Blue Ocean Institute and the Monterey Bay Aquarium for ideas on sustainable seafood options. Shopping at trusted and responsible local retailers such as Mt. Kisco Seafood is also a good choice.